Power Switch popping?

[RossJames157]

Hi everyone,

Had my PC for a few months and it’s working great. However I’ve started to notice that there may be an issue with power switch on the back of the case.

When I turn my PC on I turn the socket on at the wall it is plugged into and then the switch on the back of the PC case itself before turning the PC on with the power button at the top.

Most of the time when I turn the power switch on on the back of the PC on it will click like normal and the PC more light up to show that has power to it. However some of the time it will not click and the switch will almost feel loose and when I press it I will hear a pop sound (possibly electrical) from inside the case itself, like it hasn’t turned on properly. The PC will then work like normal regardless but it is a little concerning.

Any suggestions? Thanks

Case
CORSAIR iCUE 5000X RGB MID TOWER GAMING CASE
Processor (CPU)
AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 12 Core CPU (3.7GHz-4.8GHz/70MB CACHE/AM4)
Motherboard
ASUS® ROG STRIX X570-F GAMING (USB 3.2 Gen 2, PCIe 4.0) - ARGB Ready!
Memory (RAM)
32GB Corsair VENGEANCE RGB PRO DDR4 3200MHz (2 x 16GB)
Graphics Card
12GB NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 3080 Ti - HDMI, DP
1st Storage Drive
8TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 5400RPM, 256MB CACHE
1st M.2 SSD Drive
500GB SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2, PCIe NVMe (up to 6900MB/R, 5000MB/W)
1st M.2 SSD Drive
2TB SEAGATE FIRECUDA 520 GEN 4 PCIe NVMe (up to 5000MB/R, 4400MB/W)
Power Supply
CORSAIR 1000W RMx SERIES™ MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD, ULTRA QUIET
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Processor Cooling
Corsair H150i RGB PRO XT Hydro Series High Performance CPU Cooler
Thermal Paste
ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND
Sound Card
ASUS STRIX Raid Pro 7.1 PCIe sound card
Network Card
10/100/1000 GIGABIT LAN PORT
Wireless Network Card
WIRELESS INTEL® Wi-Fi 6 AX200 2,400Mbps/5GHz, 300Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD + BT 5.0
USB/Thunderbolt Options
MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 2 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS
Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc. Single Licence [KUK-00001]
Operating System Language
United Kingdom - English Language
Windows Recovery Media
Windows 10 Multi-Language Recovery Image - Unlimited Downloads from Online Account
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft 365® (Operating System Required)
Anti-Virus
NO ANTI-VIRUS SOFTWARE
Browser
Google Chrome™
Warranty
3 Year Silver Warranty (1 Year Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour)

 

[SpyderTracks]

Hi everyone,

Had my PC for a few months and it’s working great. However I’ve started to notice that there may be an issue with power switch on the back of the case.

When I turn my PC on I turn the socket on at the wall it is plugged into and then the switch on the back of the PC case itself before turning the PC on with the power button at the top.

Most of the time when I turn the power switch on on the back of the PC on it will click like normal and the PC more light up to show that has power to it. However some of the time it will not click and the switch will almost feel loose and when I press it I will hear a pop sound (possibly electrical) from inside the case itself, like it hasn’t turned on properly. The PC will then work like normal regardless but it is a little concerning.

Any suggestions? Thanks

Case
CORSAIR iCUE 5000X RGB MID TOWER GAMING CASE
Processor (CPU)
AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 12 Core CPU (3.7GHz-4.8GHz/70MB CACHE/AM4)
Motherboard
ASUS® ROG STRIX X570-F GAMING (USB 3.2 Gen 2, PCIe 4.0) - ARGB Ready!
Memory (RAM)
32GB Corsair VENGEANCE RGB PRO DDR4 3200MHz (2 x 16GB)
Graphics Card
12GB NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 3080 Ti - HDMI, DP
1st Storage Drive
8TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 5400RPM, 256MB CACHE
1st M.2 SSD Drive
500GB SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2, PCIe NVMe (up to 6900MB/R, 5000MB/W)
1st M.2 SSD Drive
2TB SEAGATE FIRECUDA 520 GEN 4 PCIe NVMe (up to 5000MB/R, 4400MB/W)
Power Supply
CORSAIR 1000W RMx SERIES™ MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD, ULTRA QUIET
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Processor Cooling
Corsair H150i RGB PRO XT Hydro Series High Performance CPU Cooler
Thermal Paste
ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND
Sound Card
ASUS STRIX Raid Pro 7.1 PCIe sound card
Network Card
10/100/1000 GIGABIT LAN PORT
Wireless Network Card
WIRELESS INTEL® Wi-Fi 6 AX200 2,400Mbps/5GHz, 300Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD + BT 5.0
USB/Thunderbolt Options
MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 2 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS
Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc. Single Licence [KUK-00001]
Operating System Language
United Kingdom - English Language
Windows Recovery Media
Windows 10 Multi-Language Recovery Image - Unlimited Downloads from Online Account
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft 365® (Operating System Required)
Anti-Virus
NO ANTI-VIRUS SOFTWARE
Browser
Google Chrome™
Warranty
3 Year Silver Warranty (1 Year Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour)

Any reason you're turning off the PSU switch every time? It's not really designed for that, it's really only designed for when you're working on it internally.

 

[RossJames157]

Any reason you're turning off the PSU switch every time? It's not really designed for that, it's really only designed for when you're working on it internally.

Not really no, I’m just in the habit of turning things off when I’m not using them. I’ll leave it on going forward. Is it still okay to be switched off at the wall socket? Thanks

 

[SpyderTracks]

Not really no, I’m just in the habit of turning things off when I’m not using them. I’ll leave it on going forward. Is it still okay to be switched off at the wall socket? Thanks

Yeah, if it's off at the wall, the circuit is closed there, no need to turn it off down the line.

Are you using a surge protector as well? Each time you're turning it on at the wall and then turning on the PSU after, it's going to send a surge into the PSU which is not what you really want.

 

[Martinr36]

generally the best thing is to leave the PC running 24/7, if you are going to turn it off make sure the power lead is plugged in properly