Impending Re-pasting on Octane VI

[debiruman665]

• Just looking for any advice or feedback.
  
  I've ordered some thermal grizzly Kryonaut.
• 
  
• I've mulled over delidding the cpu but I'm going to wait till the 10 series comes out and the price drops before I void my warranty and risk having to buy a whole new chip.
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Would performing the above modification to increase the contact void my warranty? I have seen this method endorsed by a clevo company rep. I can supply the source but I think linking to other websites isn't allowed?

I've seen some talk of replacing the thermal pad on the GPU. I was told by a moderator don't repaste it. Any particular reason why i shouldn't put the paste on there too? Would it be worthwhile buying a new pad?

 

[steaky360]

I think any "modifications" without prior approval from PCS would likely void your warranty in terms of related components at the very least. But I would strongly urge consulting PCS before making any changes to your laptop.

I'd guess the thermal pad provides some volume for the contact to be made with the heatsink but I could be totally wrong, who was the original mod who said you shouldn't do it?

 

[SpyderTracks]

I think any "modifications" without prior approval from PCS would likely void your warranty in terms of related components at the very least. But I would strongly urge consulting PCS before making any changes to your laptop.

I'd guess the thermal pad provides some volume for the contact to be made with the heatsink but I could be totally wrong, who was the original mod who said you shouldn't do it?

I echo the above, any mods like that will void any warranty, but they’re needless also.

with a well pasted cpu and undervolt in place you should have no issues with temps.

 

[debiruman665]

I'd guess the thermal pad provides some volume for the contact to be made with the heatsink but I could be totally wrong, who was the original mod who said you shouldn't do it?

I went back to check the previous thread where it came up and I saw in fact it was said that I would need to repaste the GPU, so the question is void.

I've seen the new clevo laptop reviews with the 10 series CPU's and the 2080 super. In terms of the laptop it's a massive upgrade with a much better screen and speakers but the double plug and 14nm intel chips are dissuading me from believing its a worthwhile step up to warrant selling my current laptop. Specifically I wanted this machine for long train journeys between England and Scotland and it's hard enough getting a single power socket never-mind two of them.

 

[SpyderTracks]

I went back to check the previous thread where it came up and I saw in fact it was said that I would need to repaste the GPU, so the question is void.

I've seen the new clevo laptop reviews with the 10 series CPU's and the 2080 super. In terms of the laptop it's a massive upgrade with a much better screen and speakers but the double plug and 14nm intel chips are dissuading me from believing its a worthwhile step up to warrant selling my current laptop. Specifically I wanted this machine for long train journeys between England and Scotland and it's hard enough getting a single power socket never-mind two of them.

There would be zero benefit. 10th series chips actually perform worse than 9th gen

But yes the octane isn’t a laptop, it’s a desktop replacement not designed for portability so for train journeys and general travelling it’s not a good solution.

 

[debiruman665]

not designed for portability so for train journeys and general travelling it’s not a good solution.

They see me taking up half the table on the train, they're being blown on by the hot air coming out the exhausts, they're hating.

 

[Scott]

I did the mod and de-lidded my CPU. PCS were still fine with honouring the warranty with other issues I was having (Screen bleed).

If you touch your CPU or heatsink in any way.... your CPU warranty is gone for sure. The laptop warranty in general is at the mercy of PCS but they tend to be quite fair in my experience. It's a risk regardless, so just be mindful of that.

If you decide to do the heat sink mod, do it with matches rather than paperclips. You will get a better load on it for a start, it'll be more dampened and there's no danger of anything shorting when pressure is applied and the ends spring up.

Doing it with a paperclip seems like madness to my engineering brain. Those should be reserved for picking locks and hot-wiring "things".

 

[debiruman665]

I did the mod and de-lidded my CPU. PCS were still fine with honouring the warranty with other issues I was having (Screen bleed).

If you touch your CPU or heatsink in any way.... your CPU warranty is gone for sure. The laptop warranty in general is at the mercy of PCS but they tend to be quite fair in my experience. It's a risk regardless, so just be mindful of that.

If you decide to do the heat sink mod, do it with matches rather than paperclips. You will get a better load on it for a start, it'll be more dampened and there's no danger of anything shorting when pressure is applied and the ends spring up.

Doing it with a paperclip seems like madness to my engineering brain. Those should be reserved for picking locks and hot-

Now im tempted to delid again. Warranty aside was there a substantial difference in temps and max performance before throttling.

Also where should i point the match heads to lessen the chance of them igniting

 

[Scott]

I think i actually used round toothpicks

 

[debiruman665]

I think i actually used round toothpicks

I'm enquiring the eBay delid uk guys for delidding and replacing with a copper IHS. Going to get same day service and drop it off and pickup as simply cannot be without a laptop for a single day 🤪

 

[Scott]

Copper IHS will make a big difference. Don't use liquid metal on it though.

 

[debiruman665]

Copper IHS will make a big difference. Don't use liquid metal on it though.

not even on the inside? The guy definitely uses liquid metal on the inside. Should I just cancel the pure copper IHS and just keep the stock nickel coated copper one?

 

[Scott]

not even on the inside? The guy definitely uses liquid metal on the inside. Should I just cancel the pure copper IHS and just keep the stock nickel coated copper one?

I'm sure he does, it makes a good difference to thermals..... it'll eat right into that copper IHS though. It'll be junk in 6-12 months and you'll need to start all over again.

There wasn't a mark on my IHS or the CPU die from the liquid metal but I had to sand down the heatsink to get rid of all the pitting.

I would suggest Kryonaut paste would be better and last longer. You will get the benefit of the copper, you will get the benefit from the better TIM and you won't have the hassle of eating into the copper

 

[debiruman665]

I'm sure he does, it makes a good difference to thermals..... it'll eat right into that copper IHS though. It'll be junk in 6-12 months and you'll need to start all over again.

There wasn't a mark on my IHS or the CPU die from the liquid metal but I had to sand down the heatsink to get rid of all the pitting.

I would suggest Kryonaut paste would be better and last longer. You will get the benefit of the copper, you will get the benefit from the better TIM and you won't have the hassle of eating into the copper

ohhh so liquid metal will corrupt even the stock IHS? not ideal, I've never seen anyone use kryonaut in any of the delidding. Is it better than the solder?

 

[Scott]

ohhh so liquid metal will corrupt even the stock IHS? not ideal, I've never seen anyone use kryonaut in any of the delidding. Is it better than the solder?

No, the stock IHS was fine. It was my copper heatsink that was eaten into (on top of the IHS).

It won't be better than solder, but it'll be less corrosive than liquid metal. You need to choose a lane to go in unfortunately as there isn't going to be a one size fits all solution.

Copper IHS with liquid metal is the optimum cooling solution but it WILL corrode the IHS.
Copper IHS with Kryonaut is great for longevity but won't cool as well
Nickel IHS with Liquid Metal will be fine for no damage to anything

With copper of any sort, the liquid metal will react and need replaced quite often. The liquid metal under my IHS was perfect, but on top of the IHS it was toast because of reacting with the copper.

 

[debiruman665]

No, the stock IHS was fine. It was my copper heatsink that was eaten into (on top of the IHS).

It won't be better than solder, but it'll be less corrosive than liquid metal. You need to choose a lane to go in unfortunately as there isn't going to be a one size fits all solution.

Copper IHS with liquid metal is the optimum cooling solution but it WILL corrode the IHS.
Copper IHS with Kryonaut is great for longevity but won't cool as well
Nickel IHS with Liquid Metal will be fine for no damage to anything

With copper of any sort, the liquid metal will react and need replaced quite often. The liquid metal under my IHS was perfect, but on top of the IHS it was toast because of reacting with the copper.

Sorry to keep hitting you with the questions, Did you use liquid metal between the IHS and the heatpipes or did the liquid metal underneath the IHS corrode the top?

Given the choice which would you recommend?

Copper + kryonaut
nickel + conductanaut (probably going to take this then)

 

[Scott]

Sorry to keep hitting you with the questions, Did you use liquid metal between the IHS and the heatpipes or did the liquid metal underneath the IHS corrode the top?

Given the choice which would you recommend?

Copper + kryonaut
nickel + conductanaut (probably going to take this then)

I used liquid metal everywhere.

The liquid metal between the CPU die and the IHS was absolutely fine
The liquid metal between the IHS and the heatsink (what you are calling heat pipes) reacted with it and both caused it to go off and erode.

I have already tried the nickel and conductonaut on the 6700k. Worked well for temps and I've re-applied it.

I would probably want to try the copper and kryonaut though.... as it's something different.

How much is the IHS? If it's not expensive then copper and liquid metal would be fine. Could just replace the IHS with a new copper one every year.

 

[debiruman665]

I used liquid metal everywhere.

The liquid metal between the CPU die and the IHS was absolutely fine
The liquid metal between the IHS and the heatsink (what you are calling heat pipes) reacted with it and both caused it to go off and erode.

I have already tried the nickel and conductonaut on the 6700k. Worked well for temps and I've re-applied it.

I would probably want to try the copper and kryonaut though.... as it's something different.

How much is the IHS? If it's not expensive then copper and liquid metal would be fine. Could just replace the IHS with a new copper one every year.

If there is a need to replace with my yearly paste it might be worthwhile buying a delider after all. The up front cost to get all the kit in place is over £100. I was just going to get a guy near to london to do it for me. the IHS is £20 buy the looks of his pricing.

I was hoping for a 1 time in a lifetime thing and see a 20C reduction in temps. i guess its too good to be true .

 

[Scott]

Hahahhahaha......... I'll crack the jokes

You only need to delid it once. It's a glue and the solder that you use the delider for. Once de-lided, you don't need to re-apply the adhesive.

£100 a year isn't so bad to be honest. It'll get the best performance for sure.

Would only be £30 a year if you did it yourself though

 

[debiruman665]

Hahahhahaha......... I'll crack the jokes

You only need to delid it once. It's a glue and the solder that you use the delider for. Once de-lided, you don't need to re-apply the adhesive.

£100 a year isn't so bad to be honest. It'll get the best performance for sure.

Would only be £30 a year if you did it yourself though

Anything final to say before I go ahead with a copper IHS next saturday?
I'm not going to use liquid metal between the heatsink and IHS thought because I don't want the heat sink to be damaged in anyway. If this is a negligible risk let me know if this is damage that would occur over the time longer than the viable lifetime of the laptop anyway.
Isn't the stock IHS nickel and copper anyway?
The price is a little higher because it's same day service.