Undervolted now in bootloop

[Jamie Scott]

Hi there I recently saw that I have been getting 100 C on my recoil 3 and harshly thermal throttling. So I looked online for help and saw about undervolting. So I undervolted too -250 because I saw people had tremendous cpu and thermal performance so I tried it for myself and now it is stuck in a boot loop.

I have tried clearing my CMOS(file attached) by removing the battery cable. Though I am still stuck in a boot loop and have no idea how to resolve my issue.

 

[SpyderTracks]

Hi there I recently saw that I have been getting 100 C on my recoil 3 and harshly thermal throttling. So I looked online for help and saw about undervolting. So I undervolted too -250 because I saw people had tremendous cpu and thermal performance so I tried it for myself and now it is stuck in a boot loop.

I have tried clearing my CMOS(file attached) by removing the battery cable. Though I am still stuck in a boot loop and have no idea how to resolve my issue.

If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it, always get advice.

Removing power doesn't reset the CMOS, you'll need to remove the CMOS battery or use the CMOS reset shortcut on the keyboard when booting (you'd need to refer to the manual to find out what that is).

-250 is FAAAAAAR too much, the laptop just won't be able to boot.

Learn about undervolting before applying it, find out the process.

You shouldn't be applying an undervolt anyway until thermals are under control, undervolting is optimisation, not cure, should never be applied to correct thermal throttling.

 

[Charlas]

Hi there I recently saw that I have been getting 100 C on my recoil 3 and harshly thermal throttling. So I looked online for help and saw about undervolting. So I undervolted too -250 because I saw people had tremendous cpu and thermal performance so I tried it for myself and now it is stuck in a boot loop.

I have tried clearing my CMOS(file attached) by removing the battery cable. Though I am still stuck in a boot loop and have no idea how to resolve my issue.

How did you undervolt it? Bios or with throttlestop/XTU?

If the latter boot into Windows in safe mode, and uninstall the application, or find out what the kernel mode driver it uses is called, and remove/rename that file so the undervolt can't be applied at HAL initialisation. Should stop it.

Depending on your cpu, 80-120 mv is all your going to be able to apply (10th gen-7th gen)

However as @SpyderTracks says,if you don't understand the fundamental changes you are making, I really wouldn't, or at least ask/research. Not sure where you got the idea that a 250mv undervolt would work (that's a qtr of a volt, a 9900k desktop part only runs at 1.52v PEAK, so that's a sixth of the processor Total voltage, and mobile parts run lower as a rule)

Also CPUs are never like for like, just because someone can run a 100mv undervolt on a 9900k does not mean you with same processor can do it, depends on the quality of your individual silicon.

As said, an undervolt is the 'icing on the cake' to thermals, not a fix, if its running hot, I'd hazard a guess that there's fluff in the heat pipe/radiator or a fan is dead, check those first and let us know.

 

[Jamie Scott]

If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it, always get advice.

Removing power doesn't reset the CMOS, you'll need to remove the CMOS battery or use the CMOS reset shortcut on the keyboard when booting (you'd need to refer to the manual to find out what that is).

-250 is FAAAAAAR too much, the laptop just won't be able to boot.

Learn about undervolting before applying it, find out the process.

You shouldn't be applying an undervolt anyway until thermals are under control, undervolting is optimisation, not cure, should never be applied to correct thermal throttling.

Thanks for the reply. In the image attached you can see I disconnected the cmos battery with no luck of a boot.

Do you know about what the keyboard shortcut it is? I recently moved and have misplaced the user manual and of course with my luck I do something stupid and I now I need it. Or if not do you know if I can get a digital copy from PCS?

 

[Charlas]

Did you do the undervolt in the bios though? If you did just reset it back. If you didn't doesn't matter what you do in the bios, as its a kernel mode driver doing it at boot.

 

[Jamie Scott]

Did you do the undervolt in the bios though? If you did just reset it back. If you didn't doesn't matter what you do in the bios, as its a kernel mode driver doing it at boot.

Yeah I undervolted from the bios but I can’t access the bios to change it back

 

[Charlas]

These are the AMI defaults, give em a go

 

[Jamie Scott]

Thank you. But no success.

I have attached a video of what happens when I boot the laptop. Once it shuts down the same thing happens. Just loops.

[boot loop link]

Also if this helps when the pc boots normal the key board is in “rainbow” mode.

 

[SpyderTracks]

Thank you. But no success.

I have attached a video of what happens when I boot the laptop. Once it shuts down the same thing happens. Just loops.

[boot loop link]

Also if this helps when the pc boots normal the key board is in “rainbow” mode.

Did you try the ctl+home to clear CMOS?

If it's not working then contact PCS for a user manual.

But you shouldn't be undervolting UNTIL you've got thermals under control, which likely means a repaste and clean out inside.

 

[Jamie Scott]

I tried ctl+home and still the same thing.

I have contacted PCS just awaiting a reply.

I initially cleaned out my pc to begin with and all fans are In working order. If I get my laptop up and running again I will order some good thermal paste and reapply it and leave the undervolt at -100.

 

[SpyderTracks]

I tried ctl+home and still the same thing.

I have contacted PCS just awaiting a reply.

I initially cleaned out my pc to begin with and all fans are In working order. If I get my laptop up and running again I will order some good thermal paste and reapply it and leave the undervolt at -100.

Again, you can’t just apply an undervolt, it’s something that’s found by incremental adjustments starting at about -50mv, then going down -10mv then stress testing, and then going down again and so on.

Wvery CPU is different in its properties so what may work for someone will possibly not work for you. Never just apply a value, test it to find the optimum for your chip.

 

[Jamie Scott]

Again, you can’t just apply an undervolt, it’s something that’s found by incremental adjustments starting at about -50mv, then going down -10mv then stress testing, and then going down again and so on.

Wvery CPU is different in its properties so what may work for someone will possibly not work for you. Never just apply a value, test it to find the optimum for your chip.

I had a stable undervolt at -100 but still 100C thermals. Then messed up with going straight to -250. Last time I see believe someone they can get a i7-8750H with a -250 undervolt, yes I know all silicon is different.

Thanks for helping me trying to resolve my stupid issue. Lesson well and truly learned.

 

[SpyderTracks]

I had a stable undervolt at -100 but still 100C thermals. Then messed up with going straight to -250. Last time I see believe someone they can get a i7-8750H with a -250 undervolt, yes I know all silicon is different.

Thanks for helping me trying to resolve my stupid issue. Lesson well and truly learned.

Yeah, before doing any kind of undervolt you need to sort your temps.

 

[Jonno90]

Hello Jamie.

Did you manage to sort out your boot loop issue? I have the same problem and same laptop. Some idiot move. Did you have to send it back to get fixed? Did they accept It? Did they say what the fix is?

Thanks for any help

 

[FerrariVie]

Hello Jamie.

Did you manage to sort out your boot loop issue? I have the same problem and same laptop. Some idiot move. Did you have to send it back to get fixed? Did they accept It? Did they say what the fix is?

Thanks for any help

You should always undervolt using software first, then when you've done enough testing to know it's 100% stable, then you might change in the BIOS (but what for?) I don't see any problem in keeping the undervolt via software, it's a lot safer and works just the same.

Have you tried removing the CMOS battery, the main battery cable and the power supply for a few minutes, then putting everything back again and turning it on?

The CMOS battery will look like this:

 

[Jamie Scott]

I sent it back for RMA and they fixed it no problem for me. I tried everything under the sun to try and fix it myself but it was no help. So I let the pros do what they do best. I had it back up and running in no time.

 

[Jonno90]

You should always undervolt using software first, then when you've done enough testing to know it's 100% stable, then you might change in the BIOS (but what for?) I don't see any problem in keeping the undervolt via software, it's a lot safer and works just the same.

Have you tried removing the CMOS battery, the main battery cable and the power supply for a few minutes, then putting everything back again and turning it on?

The CMOS battery will look like this:
View attachment 20143

Yeah I know I'm well aware of my stupidity. I shouldn't be messing around with it tbh. I've had nothing but trouble with it since I got it. Yeah I've removed both CMOS and battery and the left the PSU cable out. Jamie when you returned it did were the repairs carried out under warranty or did they charge you? If so around how much? Did you send it back to the manufacturer?

Thanks