Vyper 17,3" initial configuration + Benchmarks

[vicgui]

Hi all!

I'll finally receive tomorrow my new Vyper 17,3" with i7-10875H, RTX 2070 Super, 2x16GB 2666Hz, 2x1TB SSD 970 EVO and no OS, and I would like to ask you for some advice for the initial configuration:

1. I want to install Windows 10 from a USB-Stick and test the laptop without activating for a few days. If everything goes well, I would deactivate my W10 Retail Key from my old laptop and activate it in the new one. It should work, right?

2. As i'm installing Windows 10 on my own, should I manually install all the drivers from PCS I have on "My downloads"? or should I let first Windows Update finish updating?

3. Which type of general test would you recommend me to check the CPU/GPU performance for both gaming and 3D-software? PC UserBenchmark? PassMark? Firestrike? 3DMark? TimeSpy? Cinebench R15?

4. Would you recommend me to overclock/undervolt the CPU for a better performance? and what about switching off the MUX in the BIOS? what advantage does it has? doesnt the MUX switch let full performance when gaming? and what about Intel XTU, Throttlestop or MSI Afterburner?

5. As i'm architect I would need the better color accuracy possible, so is there a way to calibrate the display without using an exterior gadget? or would you recommend me to install the ICC File of the same display created for the review of competitor

6. I will also test the battery to check if it suffers too from the issue showed in other posts, hopefully not

Many thanks!

 

[ubuysa]

Hi all!

I'll finally receive tomorrow my new Vyper 17,3" with i7-10875H, RTX 2070 Super, 2x16GB 2666Hz, 2x1TB SSD 970 EVO and no OS, and I would like to ask you for some advice for the initial configuration:

1. I want to install Windows 10 from a USB-Stick and test the laptop without activating for a few days. If everything goes well, I would deactivate my W10 Retail Key from my old laptop and activate it in the new one. It should work, right?

No need. It will come with the Windows system installed that PCS used to test it. This should have all your drivers installed but you should not attempt to activate it even if it turns out to be a Pro version. We've had umpteen people reporting niggly problems after activating the test system.

It will be fine for you to use the PCS testing system unactivated for a few days to test your PC. That's a very wise thing to do too.

You'll have no trouble using your retail license on your new PC. You might need to phone the automated Windows system to confirm that the license is being used only on the new PC (that's happened to me in the past).

2. As i'm installing Windows 10 on my own, should I manually install all the drivers from PCS I have on "My downloads"? or should I let first Windows Update finish updating?

Let Windows Updates run until no more updates are found. That will (should) install all drivers. However you may want to download the latest driver for your graphics card and install that manually, these change so regularly that the Microsoft libraries might not have the latest version.

Don't use the PCS drivers unless Windows Update cannot find a particular driver, these drivers may well be out of date. Control software (like Gaming Center and the like) which Windows Update won't install can be installed from your PCS downloads section.

3. Which type of general test would you recommend me to check the CPU/GPU performance for both gaming and 3D-software? PC UserBenchmark? PassMark? Firestrike? 3DMark? TimeSpy? Cinebench R15?

Seethe suggestions from @Nursemorph above

4. Would you recommend me to overclock/undervolt the CPU for a better performance? and what about switching off the MUX in the BIOS? what advantage does it has? doesnt the MUX switch let full performance when gaming? and what about Intel XTU, Throttlestop or MSI Afterburner?

Personally I would never overclock a laptop, especially a gaming laptop. Cooling is working at its limits at stock frequencies, overclocking is likely to result in overheating IMO.

I would also not undervolt a laptop unless I was having cooling issues and not until I'd tried all other techniques to reduce temps. Undervolting is a fairly common practice though, but don't be any moire aggressive than you need.

5. As i'm architect I would need the better color accuracy possible, so is there a way to calibrate the display without using an exterior gadget? or would you recommend me to install the ICC File of the same display created for the review of XMG Neo 17 by notebookcheck.net? Review XMG Neo 17

No idea on this I'm afraid.

6. I will also test the battery to check if it suffers too from the issue showed in other posts, hopefully not

Many thanks!

Fingers crossed on that.

 

[vicgui]

Many thanks @Nursemorph and @ubuysa for your tips!!

I said overclock too, but my question was more oriented to undervolt, as I've read many users doing that for having better temps without loosing too much performance. But yes, I could test first if I have cooling issues

 

[barlew]

Many thanks @Nursemorph and @ubuysa for your tips!!

I said overclock too, but my question was more oriented to undervolt, as I've read many users doing that for having better temps without loosing too much performance. But yes, I could test first if I have cooling issues

You will find that the 10th gen processor in your laptop does not under-volt particularly well.
At best you will probably be able to manage a -70mV. If you choose to under-volt make sure you use ThrottleStop or better yet the BIOS under-volt utility (although I believe the max under-volt you can apply in the BIOS is -50mV).

Do not under any circumstances use XTU to apply the under-volt (as pointed out to me by @Redcloud).

This is very important, XTU is not compatible with your CPU and unlike ThrottleStop XTU writes the under-volt values straight to the BIOS. This means if you push it too far by mistake the only way you can reset the under-volt is through the BIOS. The problem with this is you could push the under-volt to the point where you are unable to boot into BIOS at which point you will have a bricked laptop which will require an RMA.

ThrottleStop applies the under-volt at an OS level so you can always recover a bad under-volt.

 

[vicgui]

Many thanks @barlew ! for the moment I will leave it without undervolting it!

I just received it and im quite happy with the build quality! the keyboard is just ok and the webcam is really bad placed, but i knew this and its ok for me. The display is quite nice, it just have some minor bleeding in the inferior right corner, but nothing too noticeable.

I've done some benchmark tests with fan boost ON (without it I had CPU thermal throttling according to HWinfo64 and worse results) and these are my results, are they ok? how are yours?

- Time Spy = 8239
- Fire Strike = 18786
- PCMark 10 = 6571
- Cinebench R20 = 4238

*Rattling noise / Possible fan issue?* = from the beginning, the left fan is doing a kind-of (very) weak gas engine noise (rattling noise) at idle...not as smooth as I expected, so hopefully it's not fan misalignment. After a while im used to it as its a weak noise, but I would like to know if its normal or not. I recorded it with my smartphone at 1-2cm from the fan exhaust, so its not as loud as in the audio file, and when the fan speeds up it sounds faster but not louder...and the air sound "covers" it. Should I be worried or is it normal? (acc audio file attached)


Many thanks!

 

[barlew]

Many thanks @barlew ! for the moment I will leave it without undervolting it!

I just received it and im quite happy with the build quality! the keyboard is just ok and the webcam is really bad placed, but i knew this and its ok for me. The display is quite nice, it just have some minor bleeding in the inferior right corner, but nothing too noticeable.

I've done some benchmark tests with fan boost ON (without it I had CPU thermal throttling according to HWinfo64 and worse results) and these are my results, are they ok? how are yours?

- Time Spy = 8239
- Fire Strike = 18786
- PCMark 10 = 6571
- Cinebench R20 = 4238

*Rattling noise / Possible fan issue?* = from the beginning, the left fan is doing a kind-of weak gas engine noise (rattling noise) at idle...not as smooth as I expected, so hopefully it's not fan misalignment. After a while im used to it as its not a loud noise, but I would like to know if its normal or not. I recorded it with my smartphone at 1-2cm from the fan exhaust, so its not as loud as in the audio file, and when the fan speeds up it sounds faster but not louder...and the air sound "covers" it. Should I be worried or is it normal?
Its something like this but weaker

Many thanks!

Mine has some light bleed too but its not horrific.

Your fan definitely shouldn't sound like that.

I'd take the bottom off and have a look myself. It sounds like potentially something is just catching the fan blades. Perhaps a wire has slipped out of place?

 

[vicgui]

Mine has some light bleed too but its not horrific.

Your fan definitely shouldn't sound like that.

I'd take the bottom off and have a look myself. It sounds like potentially something is just catching the fan blades. Perhaps a wire has slipped out of place?

Thanks! after a restart it sounds much weaker, barely noticeable...but as if it sounds its due to physical damage, I don't know whether to ask support or wait a few days...I uploaded two audio files in my previous post, could you check them?

 

[SpyderTracks]

Thanks! after a restart it sounds much weaker, barely noticeable...but as if it sounds its due to physical damage, I don't know whether to ask support or wait a few days...I uploaded two audio files in my previous post, could you check them?

You’re allowed to open the chassis without affecting warranty.

As @barlew says it’s likely to be a loose cable or something interrupting the fans

 

[barlew]

Thanks! after a restart it sounds much weaker, barely noticeable...but as if it sounds its due to physical damage, I don't know whether to ask support or wait a few days...I uploaded two audio files in my previous post, could you check them?

Like @spydersaid mate you are allowed to open the laptop and have a look. Also the Vyper is really easy to open. Just flip it over and take the screws out the bottom then you'll be able to open it.

Have a look at the fans it's probably something mega obvious just touch the blades slightly.

 

[vicgui]

Many thanks you both @barlew and @SpyderTracks for your kind fast help!

I just opened it for the second time (first one was to place the two 970 Evo i bought separately) and the only weird thing I can see is this brown...glue drop? not sure what it is...but maybe its weight is causing a slight misalignment, should i take it out?

 

[barlew]

Many thanks you both @barlew and @SpyderTracks for your kind fast help!

I just opened it for the second time (first one was to place the two 970 Evo i bought separately) and the only weird thing I can see is this brown...glue drop? not sure what it is...but maybe its weight is causing a slight misalignment, should i take it out? View attachment 19255

Is it loose or stuck to the fan?

 

[vicgui]

Is it loose or stuck to the fan?

Somehow stuck to the fan...thats why i said "glue drop"...but it doesnt make sense as that space all around the fan is empty, just for that thing..and i could imagine that the weight could cause the fan to be bad balanced..could you maybe check yours?

pd: so I just found a pic of the same fan in aliexpress and it also has that brown thing...
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H09bfcbef3ad14e2f845a368b49a81d15t.jpg

 

[barlew]

Somehow stuck to the fan...thats why i said "glue drop"...but it doesnt make sense as that space all around the fan is empty, just for that thing..and i could imagine that the weight could cause the fan to be bad balanced..could you maybe check yours?

pd: so I just found a pic of the same fan in aliexpress and it also has that brown thing...
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H09bfcbef3ad14e2f845a368b49a81d15t.jpg

View attachment 19256

Sorry mate I would open it up if I could but I am in the middle of a house move and my tools are all boxed up. I have no idea what box they are in.

Does the other fan have some "glue" in the same place?

 

[vicgui]

Sorry mate I would open it up if I could but I am in the middle of a house move and my tools are all boxed up. I have no idea what box they are in.

Does the other fan have some "glue" in the same place?

No worries! sadly to right fan is facing down so I cant see that...maybe that "glue" must be there, but I cant find any other reason for the rattling..

 

[barlew]

No worries! sadly to right fan is facing down so I cant see that...maybe that "glue" must be there, but I cant find any other reason for the rattling..

Are you able to easily unscrew the fan and check there is nothing obstructing from underneath it?

 

[barlew]

I don't think it will be that "glue". I did a quick google and this fan is the same as yours and you can see the same sort of glue on it.

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H74d2d7f8e47f4a119cf926a1c0e5b3788.jpg

That being said I am no expert on fans. I think it is more likely that something is coming into contact with the blades.

 

[vicgui]

Thanks again barlew! but I prefer to avoid that, as I dont want to do smth wrong as its brand new and under the 14-days return
But i've some news, as I have found the same "glue" drop in different websites selling the fan...so I guess its completely normal. Then I ask myself again why it does rattle...even if its a weak sound..it could get worse in the future right?

 

[barlew]

Thanks again barlew! but I prefer to avoid that, as I dont want to do smth wrong as its brand new and under the 14-days return
But i've some news, as I have found the same "glue" drop in different websites selling the fan...so I guess its completely normal. Then I ask myself again why it does rattle...even if its a weak sound..it could get worse in the future right?

Haha read my post above.

Again if you unscrew and inspect the underside of the fan you wont invalidate the warranty unless you did something crazy.

 

[barlew]

Haha read my post above.

Again if you unscrew and inspect the underside of the fan you wont invalidate the warranty unless you did something crazy.

To put this into context. A few years ago PCS tech support got me to completely take apart the screen on my old Defiance laptop to check the connection before I sent it back to them. Their warranty really is very good.

 

[vicgui]

haha thanks! we found the same picture!

Ok I will try, there are just 3 screws and the cable; but what should I do with these two bands that are glued to the fan? peel them off gently?